by Beth Hammarlund
It’s easy to forget that Joynoëlle, the bridal and ready-to-wear line helmed by Joy Teiken, has been in production since 2003. On the one hand, that’s thirteen years of collections, a major success for any designer, especially one located in the Twin Cities. On the other hand, Joynoëlle is such an established brand and consistent leader in the fashion community that I find myself thinking, thirteen years? That’s it? I’ve grown so accustomed to the line’s presence that I’ve started to think of Teiken as some timeless and ageless creature, an elvin fairy godmother who’s been making wishes come true for centuries. And though the temporal logistics of that theory might be suspect, the rest of it isn’t too much of a stretch. Teiken is more than a little spritely, and she’s made a profession of transforming fantasy into reality.
The designer showed her Fall 2016 RTW collection “A Study in Color,” at the historic Minikahda Club. With its glamorous interiors and grand view of Lake Calhoun and the Minneapolis skyline, it was the perfect setting for the lavish presentation. The event doubled as a benefit for Kill Kancer, and host Dessa praised the organization, celebrated Joynoëlle, and injected a bit of humor into the proceedings.
The collection was inspired by the childhood joy of opening a fresh box of crayons. Teiken favors muted palettes, and while the creams and dusty roses were still present, she also dabbled in scarlet, olive, aubergine, and varying shades of blue. The looks were shown in two segments. First, we were treated to cocktail dresses and separates in her chosen rainbow. In the second section, we were presented with ball gown versions in matching hues. Teiken is best known for her bridal designs, and several of her evening gowns would make jaw-dropping wedding dresses. And for brides craving a costume change, one could easily switch to the coordinating cocktail dress for the reception.
The collection had more Old Hollywood moments than I’ve seen from Teiken in the past, but her signature techniques were on display as well, including raw edges, lush layers, and a bold combination of textures. There were plenty of extravagant details that elevated their looks. Berry clusters of beads adorned a violet waistband. An oversized diaphanous bow was both sophisticated and girly. The luxe pieces were up to Teiken’s usual standards, but I was a little disappointed that we didn’t see a larger range of color. When I imagine opening a box of crayons, I picture an assault of brights. Though she certainly strayed outside of her typical color scheme, I would love to see what she could accomplish with canary yellow, carnation pink or juicy tangerine.
Acting as an intermission between the two halves of her collection, Teiken staged a fashion show for young designers, including her seven year-old son. This is becoming something of a tradition for the designer, who is committed to teaching young people and encouraging them to find their creative voices. For those following the trends being embraced by the next wave of fashion designers, think bronze tailored suiting (worn with cowboy boots, if possible), orange tie-dye street wear, fun fur, appliqués and capes. More is more! The final look, a white sparkling dress worn with a wrist corsage, was proto-Dior and confirmed my long-held suspicion that wrist corsages are due for a comeback.
photos courtesy of FWMN